How to Use Squid Jigs and Catch More Squid

A squid jig hanging lifelessly under a jetty light will sometimes get eaten. But if you want consistent captures - especially when the water is clear, the squid are spooky or the bite is short - the jig needs to look like a small prawn trying to get away. That is the heart of how to use squid jigs: choose a jig that suits the conditions, get it near the weed, then give it sharp life followed by plenty of pauses.

Squid are a top feed, great fresh bait and one of the best targets for a quick session from a jetty, rock wall, beach or boat. They can also be frustrating. You might see them following your jig right to the rod tip, only to turn away at the last second. A few small changes to jig colour, depth and retrieve make a big difference.

Start with the right squid jig

A squid jig, often called an egi, is built to imitate a prawn or small baitfish. The cloth-covered body provides colour and texture, the weighted belly controls sink rate, and the crown of sharp prongs at the tail catches the squid's tentacles.

For most inshore Australian squid fishing, a 2.5 or 3.0 size jig is a dependable starting point. A 2.5 is handy in shallow water, around thick weed beds, or when squid are feeding on smaller prawns. A 3.0 casts farther and reaches depth more quickly, making it a better all-round choice from open jetties, rock platforms and boats.

Step up to a 3.5 when there is wind, current or deeper water to cover. It is not always the best option, though. A big fast-sinking jig can snag weed, rush past squid holding shallow, and look wrong in calm clear water. When conditions are quiet, slowing down with a smaller jig often gets the bite.

Colour matters, but not as much as having the jig in the right zone. Pink, orange and natural prawn patterns are proven everyday colours. Bright cloth can be useful in dirty water, dull weather or low light. Natural greens, browns and baitfish colours are worth tying on when the water is clear and squid are following without committing. Carrying a small spread gives you options rather than guessing.

Where to fish squid jigs

Squid hold where food and cover meet. Look for broken weed beds, seagrass edges, reef patches, pylons, moored boats and the shadow lines around jetties. They often sit just off the weed rather than buried in it, waiting to grab passing prawns and baitfish.

From shore, cast across or along the edge of a weed bed instead of firing straight into the thickest growth. This lets the jig sink beside the cover where squid can see it, while giving you a cleaner retrieve. On a beach, focus on darker patches of weed, gutters close to reef and sheltered corners where weed has accumulated.

From a boat, drift quietly over likely ground or use an electric motor to make controlled passes along the weed line. Avoid roaring over shallow beds with the outboard if the water is clear. Squid can be close beneath the surface and boat noise does not help.

Dawn, dusk and night sessions around artificial light are popular for good reason. Squid use low light to hunt, and lights attract the small bait they feed on. Still, do not write off the middle of the day. Clear, calm water and a visible weed edge can produce excellent squid fishing under full sun.

How to use squid jigs: the basic retrieve

Cast past the area you want to fish and allow the jig to sink on a semi-slack line. Watch the line closely as it drops. If it jumps, straightens or starts moving sideways before the jig reaches the expected depth, lift the rod smoothly. A squid may already have it.

Once the jig has sunk, point the rod toward the water and take up enough slack to stay in touch. Give the rod one or two firm upward flicks, then allow the jig to fall again on a controlled slack line. Those flicks make the jig dart upward like a startled prawn. The pause lets it glide and sink naturally, which is when many squid strike.

There is no need to whip the rod like you are casting a lure into the next postcode. A sharp 30 to 60 centimetre lift is plenty. After the lift, wind in the loose line while keeping enough slack for the jig to sink freely. Pause for three to 10 seconds depending on depth, then repeat.

In shallow water, use smaller lifts and shorter pauses so the jig stays above the weed. In deeper water, let it sink longer before starting the retrieve and allow longer pauses between hops. If you are unsure, count the jig down on the first few casts. This gives you a rough picture of where the bottom and weed tops sit.

Adjust the retrieve when squid are fussy

Squid do not always want the same presentation. If you see a squid following, stop working the jig hard. Let it hang or sink gently for a few seconds. A follower often grabs it when it looks like the prawn has stopped to settle.

If that does not work, make one light twitch and pause again. Do not drag the jig away in a panic. The same applies when fishing under lights: slow, deliberate hops usually outperform a constant fast retrieve.

Wind and current can put a bow in the line and make it hard to feel takes. Cast slightly up-current where possible, use a heavier jig if needed, and keep an eye on the line rather than relying only on feel. A heavier jig helps maintain contact, but it can also snag more easily around weed. It is always a balance.

When the jig keeps fouling, you are likely fishing too deep or retrieving too slowly for the depth. Start the retrieve earlier, shorten the pause, or move to a slower-sinking and smaller jig. If you are not touching weed occasionally in a weedy area, on the other hand, you may be fishing too high above the squid.

Tackle that makes squid fishing easier

A light spinning outfit is ideal. A rod around 7 to 8 feet with a light to medium-light rating gives you casting distance and enough softness to avoid pulling the jig free. Match it with a smooth 2000 to 3000 size spinning reel.

Fine braid helps you cast small jigs and detect subtle takes. A 6 to 10 lb braid paired with a rod length of 6 to 10 lb fluorocarbon leader is a practical setup for most inshore work. Fluorocarbon is abrasion resistant around reef and pylons, while its low visibility is useful in clear water.

Set the drag lighter than you would for snapper or salmon. Squid are soft-bodied, and a hard strike with a locked-up drag can pull the prongs straight out. When one takes the jig, lift smoothly and keep steady pressure as you wind it in. No heroic hook set required.

A landing net is worth carrying, particularly from high jetties or rocks. Squid can let go right at the surface, and trying to lift a large one by the line is a good way to lose dinner. Net it calmly, keep clear of the ink, and place it straight into an ice slurry or esky for the best eating quality.

Common mistakes that cost squid

The biggest mistake is retrieving too fast without pauses. The jig may look lively, but squid need a chance to track and grab it. The next is fishing only one depth. Squid may be sitting just under the surface, halfway down beside the weed, or deeper along a drop-off, so change your sink time before changing everything else.

Another common error is persisting with a badly damaged jig. Once the cloth is torn, the body is cracked or the prongs are bent apart, it will not sink or hook as well. Rinse jigs in fresh water after saltwater sessions, straighten prongs carefully, and retire any jig that is beyond repair.

Finally, do not crowd a productive patch. If you catch a squid, work the same area again because they are often close together. Keep noise down and avoid stomping around a jetty with lights blazing into the water. A quiet approach catches more.

A few good jigs, light braid, a net and a patient retrieve are all you need to get started. Grab a couple of colours and sizes, fish the edges rather than the middle of the weed, and let the jig pause long enough for a squid to make up its mind. That next soft line movement could be the start of a very good feed.